Sewing 208 (Part 2) Pattern Drafting: Basic Dress (Back)

Please Draft the Front Dress first, as some measurements are related. Thanks.

Measurements you will need (Feel free to work in Inches or Cm)

• Full length Front (Shoulder to waist)

• Full length Back

• Hip

• Hip depth

• Centre Back

• Neck

• Across shoulder

• Shoulder

• Bust Depth (Shoulder to Bust)

• Full Bust

• Upper Bust

• Across Chest

• Across Back

• Full Waist

• Apex width (Bust span)

• Side

• Arm hole

The Back Bodice Draft

1. Line A – B = Back full length Measurement

2. Line B - C = Hip depth measurement

3. Square out short guide lines from points A, B and C

4. Point B - D = Centre Back measurement

5. Line A – E = Half Across Shoulder Measurement (perpendicular to Line AB)

6. Line E – F = Square down a guide line for about 2 1/2 inches (6.25cm)

7. Line A – G = Neck width measurement

8. Line G - H = Shoulder Measurement. From point G, draw a line touching line EF.

9. From point G, draw a guide line at right angles to the shoulder line

10. Line G - D = Join with a curved line to form neckline.

11. Line B - I = Back Waist Measurement plus the Dart width

12. Line C - J = Back Hip Measurement

13. Join Points I and J with a shallow curved line

14. To establish the width of the Back, Square out a guideline from the Centre Back line (along line AB). This guideline equals Back Bust Measurement. Mark as *.

From *, square another guideline above and below this point.

15. Line I - K = Side Measurement. From point I, draw a line touching the guideline.

16. Line K- L = Square out straight line to Centre Back line.

17. Point M = Mark a point midway between points D and L

18. Line M - N = Half across back measurement. Square a guideline up and down, stopping on line KL.

19. Join points H to N to K with a curved line, touching the guideline to form armhole.

20. Line L - O = Half Line MN Measurement

21. Square a straight line down from point O, touching the Hip line. Label as P and Q as illustrated.

22. Points R-S = Insert Back dart at Point P. Split back dart measurement equally on either side of point P. Label as R and S.

23. Connect Point O-R-Q and O-S-Q to form the waist dart

24. Point T = Mark a point midway between points G and H. Connect points T and O with a straight line.

25. Along the TO line, three-quarters of the way between Point T and Line MN, Mark point U.

26. Line U - V = Square a line from point U to the Armhole. Insert a dart, 1/2inch (1.2cm) wide at Point V.

27. Distribute dart equally on either side of point V and connect back to point U to create back shoulder dart.

You can extend the bodice to your desired length as shown above. This completes the Back bodice pattern. Finally, use your tape measure to measure both front and back armholes and compare it to the body measurement you took. If it is a little bigger, it is fine. If it is a little smaller, you can redraw your curves or recheck your bust depth measurement.

Thanks for reading. See Part 1: Pattern Drafting: Basic Dress (Front) here.

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