Sewing 204 (Part 2) - Pattern Drafting: Basic Bodice (Back)

Please Draft the Front Bodice first, as some measurements are and you can download the worksheet there. Thanks.

Measurements you will need (Feel free to work in Inches or Cm)

• Full length Front (Shoulder to waist)

• Full length Back

• Neck

• Centre Back

• Across shoulder

• Shoulder

• Bust Depth (Shoulder to Bust)

• Armhole Depth

• Full Bust

• Above Bust

• Across Chest

• Across Back

• Full Waist

• Apex width (Bust span)

• Side

• Arm hole

The Back Bodice Draft

1. Line J - a = Half Bust Measurement

2. Line a - b = Half Centre Back length Measurement plus 3/4 inch (2cm)

3. Line b – c = Centre Back Measurement

4. Line c - d = Full Length Back measurement

5. Line d – e = Half Across Shoulder Measurement

6. Line e – f = Square down a guide line for about 2 1/2 inches (6.25cm)

7. Point g = Mark half way between points b and a

8. Line g - h = Half Across Back Measurement

9. Line a - i = Half of Line g-h measurement

10. Line c - j = Line a-i minus 3/8 inch (1cm)

11. Line i - j = Join with a straight line

12. Using line i-j as your guide (use its length), you need to create an arc, pivoting from point i. This will give a guide line for the next step.

13. Line N - k = Back waist measurement minus Line c-j.

E.g. If Back waist is 8, and Line c-j is 3, then Line N-k will be 8 - 3 = 5.

Draw the line from Point N touching the arc guide line. Label as Point k.

14. Join Points k and i with a straight line to form the second dart leg

Note: Lines i-j and i-k are the dart legs and they must be of equal length.

Measure Line i-j and compare it to Line i-k. Any inconsistencies will be corrected by trueing the pattern when cutting it out.

15. Line d – l = Neck width measurement

16. Line l – m = Shoulder Measurement. From point l, draw a line touching line e-f. Square a short guideline to the left from point m.

17. Line l – m1 = Shoulder Measurement plus 1/2inch (1.2cm). From point l, draw a line touching the guideline. This is the new shoulder line, you can erase the previous one.

18. Point n = Mark half way between points m1 and l on shoulder

19. Join points n and i with a straight line

20. From point n measure down about 3 to 3.5 inches (7.5- 8.7cm) along line n-i. Label as point o.

21. Mark 1/4 inch (6mm) on either side of point n, label as p and q.

22. Join points p, o and q to form dart.

Note: Lines o-p and o-q are the dart legs and they must be of equal length. Any inconsistencies will be corrected by trueing the pattern when cutting it out.

23. From Point h, square a guideline up and down, stopping on line K-a.

24. Join points m1, h and K with a curved line, touching the guideline to form armhole.

25. Line l - b = Join with a curved line to form neckline.

This completes the Back bodice pattern. Finally, use your tape measure to measure both front and back armholes and compare it to the body measurement you took. If it is a little bigger, it is fine. If it is a little smaller, you can redraw your curves or recheck your bust depth measurement.

Thanks for reading. See Part 1: Pattern Drafting: Basic Bodice (Front) here.

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